Distance: 35 km from the centre of João Pessoa
How to get there: Access from the PB 008
Nature’s work of art, Coqueirinho is a source of pride for the people of Paraíba, since it is consistently voted one of the best and prettiest beaches in the country. It also frequently appears in adverts and on TV.
In the search for this lost treasure, the visitor approaches the beach on a small dirt road off the PB008, which doesn’t have a regular bus service. The downward descent to the beach is quite steep and twisty; however, the effort to get there is worthwhile. Known for its cliffs and canyons, Coqueirinho is still practically intact and the lovely sands of the beach separating the sea of crystal clear water from the natural vegetation of groves of beautiful coconut trees which dominate the area make the beach very special and a must for families with children.
You have the choice to park at the top of the steep track before you descend. There is usually a local there to watch your vehicle. As you reach the bottom of the track the road will fork to the left and right. The large sign at the fork warns you to take your rubbish with you or dispose of it sensibly.
The right hand fork takes you to a “bells and whistles” restaurant. The restaurant boasts excellent views over the deserted beach. Secure parking is offered and as is to be expected above average toilet facilities.
Chalets are also available and enquiries must be made through the restaurant. This is an excellent option for those with an adventurous spirit but are less able bodied. Or for those who don’t want to “rough it” at the other beach bars. As you approach the restaurant you will note several houses for rent. They usually have a sign saying “aluga-se”.
Taking the left hand fork brings you to the main beach with its natural shallow piscina and beach bars. You should note that parking is monitored but limited. An option is to take the previously mentioned right hand fork, park up and walk along. There are around eight local bars most of which serve meals and ice cold beer. Ample portions are served at all of them and are very reasonably priced. The beach is surprisingly deserted during the week though this changes during weekends and holidays.
Another tip is to take an empty bottle with you so you can sample the water from the natural fresh water font (agua doce) at the end of the beach. To find the font simply park up at the beach entrance and then walk along to the end of the beach bars. You will see a stream emerging from the mango groves. Follow the well worn path (slippery when wet) and after a minute or so you should happen upon the font. The locals use this font and they seem to be doing fine.
The beach is also popular with surfers and is rated at amateur/intermediate level. Surfers normally go to the far end of the beach well past the font.
Best time to visit; just before or just after high tide when the natural pacina is at its best level. High tide sees the water right up to the trees edge near the beach bars. A tight fit to say the least.